Monday, June 15, 2009

Kotor Part I

15 June 2009

9.00 PM

My traveling partner has left me to return home and I am on my own again.

Greg left Dubrovnik to go back to California and I left a couple of hours later to go to Kotor, Montenegro.

As my bus nears Kotor, some of my sadness is turning into excitement. In the morning, I will wake up in old town Kotor and start my Montenegrin adventure.

11.00 PM

My first impression is that I'm going to like it here very much. I have 2 nights booked, but 4 or 5 seem more likely now.

I read that Kotor is one of those places you get in and get out of, but that is totally wrong. I could tell I would like it the second I saw the illuminated fortress and the old town walls from the bus window.

With my backpack on, even before finding the hostel, I took out my camera and started snapping photos.

The fortress spans the entire mountain face. I'm not sure a photo can accurately depict the fortress; it's too massive.


The dots of lights in the shape of a mountain are fortress fortifications. These pictures don't do Kotor justice. I'm not sure that any photos can.

I love the reflection in the water.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

The Island of Lokrum

13 June 2009

Since we were still exhausted from yesterday (our day trip to Mostar), we decided to stay closer to home base today.

By that I mean that we took the #4 bus to old town, walked to the old town port, and hopped on a boat to Lokrum.

Lokrum is an island near Dubrovnik (near enough to swim to).But we, like everybody else, hopped on the 40 kuna return trip boat.

As soon as we arrived, we set out to explore the island.The island was full of peacocks.

We found some peacocks, the monastery and botanical gardens and after some intense uphill hiking, found the fortress.Hiking to the fortress.View of Dubrovnik from the top of the fortress.

After exploring, we set out to find one of the many beaches on the island. It turns out that there are no real beaches on the island, only rocks and cliffs. We found some particularly pokey rocks and plopped down. It seems to me that most of the beaches we've been to (and maybe most of the beaches in Europe even, are rocky or pebbly at the very least).

We relaxed in the sun until the last boat back docked.

7 passport checks, 2 countries, 1 really cool bridge

13 June 2009

Yesterday, we daytripped to Mostar, Bosnia from Dubrovnik, Croatia. I had been wanting to go to Bosnia, and finally I made it. Country number 35 (36 if you count the US).

We spent 3 and a half hours on the bus to get there, and 3 to get back, and a total of 5 hours in Mostar itself. Our passports were checked 7 times, but not stamped even once (I really wanted a Bosnian stamp!). We had to wake up before 6am and we didn't get back until about 10pm.

Was it worth it?
YES!

Bosnia is a really interesting combination of people. In Mostar, for example, control is divided between Croats and Bosniaks. Although we had no experience with this ourselves, apparently the division is apparent with each ethnicity claiming one side of the main street even. Something else I find interesting is that in Mostar specifically, Orthodox, Islam, and Catholic exist side by side. Christian crosses can be seen in close proximity to mosques. Minarets peak the skyline, crosses on the tops of churches in between.
Despite major efforts to restore the city, war damage is still existent and obvious. There are hollow buildings inhabited only by trees and birds. The main symbol of the city is the bridge which was more or less destroyed in the war and painstakingly rebuilt.
The main sites are the mosques in stari grad (old town) and the restored bridge. We admired the bridge and took plenty of pictures. We even witnessed a couple of guys jumping from the bridge into the Neretva river below (something like 100 feet down). What a scam! One guy would go around asking people to pay to watch a different guy jump off the bridge. We didn't pay, but saw the jumping because we happened to be in the right place at the right time to witness the "feat." I bet they make a pretty good living jumping a couple of times every hour. Greg said he saw a 20 euro bill in the hat the guy was passing around.

I think that is going to be one of my new jobs. Bridge jumping. My slogan will be: "I'll jump for a Mark." But the trick is, I won't. I'll only jump once I have 20 Bosnian Marks in my hat (10 euro). If I jump 6 times a day, that's 60 euro and surely enough to live on in Bosnia.

I don't think I've mentioned my other new jobs I'm planning on (all borrowed ideas from people I've seen working here). My first job is definitely going to be rabbit fortune telling (I saw this one in Turkey). My business plan is to buy a bunny, train it to sit on a box, handwrite some crazy fortunes, and then write up a sign that says "Pet my bunny and he will tell you your fortune." I will lure kids in with my bunny (of course they will want to pet him, and when they do, "Aha! That will be 1 Turkish lira please. Here is your fortune.") My only business cost would be carrots and lettuce! But of course, I would need more income than my bunny could provide me, so I would have to diversify. I would also sell jewelry on the side of the road, tie bits of string around unsuspecting tourists' wrists and then ask for a euro, carry around a bucket of ice and bottled water, and participate in other such nefarious get rich quick schemes.

Sixteen plus hours after we left, we ambled through the door of the sobe. I was so tired I couldn't think. I showered quickly and almost immediately fell asleep.