Back to Cusco

2/14/14 8:51 AM        

                                                                                    

Here we are again, sitting on the train. Today, we are going back to Cusco. First, we'll take the train to Ollantaytambo, then we will try to find a cheap collectivo heading to Cusco. 

I feel like we are bleeding money here, paying a lot extra for things because we don't know the going rate. We've also been taken in by promises of free wifi and breakfast. This morning, when I asked the woman at the hostel about breakfast, she led me to the luggage room. For about 5 seconds, I actually thought that the luggage room doubled as a breakfast room.

No, no it did not.

I no longer wanted to be at that place. I hefted my bag up onto my back and practically lept to the door. Of course, I wasn't able to open it. The hostel woman had to come help me. Embarrassing. I actually felt relief once outside.

It's simple. Don't call yourself a B&B if you don't provide breakfast. And don't offer hot water or wifi if you don't actually have it.                                         

Aaarghh.  Thus ends my rant.

The train has begun to move, and I am awaiting my train snack. At least the train isn't going to let me down. I'm starving and looking forward to that dry, pre-packaged muffin with no discernible flavor.            

Off to Aguas Calientes and Ultimately, Machu Picchu

2/12/14, 7PM

At a couple minutes until seven, we are sitting on our train waiting for it to leave for Aguas Calientes (the town nearest Machu Picchu). We will arrive at 8:43 PM and make our way to the hostel, Machupicchu B&B. The plan is to get up early tomorrow to take the first bus up to Machu Picchu.

Peru Rail

To anyone who thinks that because Peru is a South American country it must be cheap, you are wrong. Peru is cheap (by our standards) for the locals, but not for tourists. The train cost about USD $55 from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes. I've heard that the bus from Aguas Calientes up the mountain to the ruins is $40 and the ruins cost $45. By the end of the day, I'll be broke.

The train has left, and we are now on our way. Only a few minutes into the journey, and I'm already ready to be there. My body is worn out; we spent much of the day hiking. We had planned to see the fortress ruins, but I had a hard time stomaching the 130 Peruvian sole entrance fee (USD $43). Instead, we walked to the other side of the town to Pinkuylluna (which was free).

Although a strenuous uphill hike, the views were amazing. Unfortunately, we hadn't done enough research before we started the hike to know what we were looking at. We met a couple on the trail that told us the row of buildings that looked like houses were actually storage sheds for food. 

I have since done a little research (also known as reading the guidebook), and have found out that the buildings, seen below, were storehouses called (quollqa) at a site called Pinkuylluna. Interestingly enough, grain was stored here because the higher altitude preserved the food better. 

Incan store houses.

It is believed that the food stored in these houses came from the crops grown on the Incas' terraced mountain sides seen below.

Terraces.

By these accounts, the Incas were brilliant. I even read that they had a ventilation system for their storehouses. Not bad for 500 years ago.

Ollantaytambo

Impressions of Peru

Feb 11, 10:15 PM

Not that this realization is a surprise to any of you (you meaning my lone blog fan, G), but my first impression of Peru is that it is a very poor country. Homeless dogs roam. The streets smell of what I can only hope is animal waste. Actually, I think the stench is animal waste; I have not seen any homeless people in the small village of Ollantaytambo. Men and women in traditional Peruvian dress greet you in the streets in hopes of you paying to take their photo. Goods in shops are not priced, presumably so that shopkeepers can charge tourists a premium that locals aren't charged.

However, despite these not-so-pleasant aspects, Peru has a lot to offer (yes, I know, that statement was very cliche). The traditional dress is beautiful and vibrant, and the restaurants are cheap and the food is decent. Tonight, Alli and I shared a margarita pizza and a liter of Inca Kola for about USD $11. By the way, Inca Kola is a yellow-colored soda that takes like a cross between dreamsicle and bubble gum. It's all the rage here, and I hate to say that the flavor is growing on me. 

First Real Day in Peru

2/11/14  9.53 PM

Today we spent our first real day in Peru. The day started with an hour and a half flight delay in Lima. Apparently, the weather in Cusco made the flight impossible until later in the morning. We both snoozed upright in our seats while waiting at the gate. Normally, I'm not able to sleep except under very specific conditions, but this morning I was so exhausted that I was able to snooze just a bit.

The flight itself wasn't bad. I was expecting lots of turbulence due to bad weather, but there really wasn't much. After being treated to meal service (on an hour and forty-five minute flight), we were quickly ushered off the plane and into the arrivals hall, full of people looking for their bags and others pushing tours.

Normally, we wouldn't allow ourselves to be accosted by one of these gentlemen. Today, we didn't have much choice. Plus, we were tired. I can blame almost anything on being tired. A trip on the train to our destination, Ollantaytambo, would cost around USD $85 per person one way. A man selling tours approached us. We explained that we needed to get to Ollantaytambo. He offered us a private driver for $45. Not cheap, but better than the train. I wouldn't usually hand a man selling questionable tours my hard-earned money, but this time I did. He led us through the airport and out a sort of back way. 

Outside the airport stood dozens of eager young Peruvian men, all wanting to be your taxi driver. The tour man handed us off to one of these men who led us to his slightly-beat-up Toyota parked in the dirt parking lot of the Cusco airport. Apparently, everything that is said about drivers in Peru is true. The concept of lanes is very fluid - drivers tend to make their own lanes. Because of this craziness, drivers tend to honk ALL THE TIME. Essentially, they are honking to let pedestrians and other drivers know that they are there.

Somewhere across town, we were dropped off and ushered into a minivan. The driver introduced himself as Juan. Juan kindly announced each new town we passed through on the way to Ollantaytambo. Unfortunately, I was so tired from yesterday's activities that I couldn't even keep my eyes open and even snoozed a bit. Besides being a finicky sleeper, I am not at all known for my ability to sleep in any moving vehicle, so my extreme exhaustion is evident. 

I managed to open my burning eyes long enough to witness a girl with a large pig, another girl crossing the road with a cow, and some beautiful mountain and valley scenery. After we arrived in Plaza de Armas, the main square of Ollantaytambo, Alli asked me if I had seen the dead pig on the side of the road

No, no I had not.

Ollantaytambo is a small village in Sacred Valley between Cusco and Machu Picchu. The village was once the royal home of Emporer Pachacuti. Now, the town is a good resting point before seeing Machu Picchu.

We easily found Hostal Chaska Wasi and checked in. The man at reception handed us a key attached to a purple stuffed ape thing and led us to our room. 

After resting for a couple of hours, we ventured into the adobe-walled Incan village. Dirty dogs, many with simple red or blue collars, roamed the cobblestone streets. Beyond the main plaza, cars were forbidden; the ancient streets are too narrow. We meandered through the grid of streets as children played and local adults went about their business. It was already late, well after 3 PM, so we didn't wander for long before we stopped for dinner at a place that had a special on pizza.

After dinner, we headed back to the hostel to wind down for the night.

Tomorrow, we will acend to the ancient Incan ruins of Ollantaytambo.